Hut where the traditional tattoo seesion take place in buscalan
Hut where the traditional tattoo seesion take place in buscalan
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Ink Enchantment: My Unforgettable Traditional Tattoo in Buscalan

Introduction

Buscalan, located in Tingalayan, Kalinga, is well-known for its diverse cultural history, particularly its traditional tattooing techniques. Apo Whang-od, the famed tattoo artist and the oldest practitioner of this traditional art technique, was born in this tiny village. Whang-od and her fellow artisans make elaborate drawings using a charcoal and water ink blend, applied with thorns from pomelo or calamansi, that have attracted travelers from all over the world.

Exploring the Journey to Buscalan

After our visit to Sagada, we embarked on a DIY trip to Buscalan. None of us had ever tried getting a tattoo before.

Nathaniel in Buscalan
Nathaniel in Buscalan

How to get to Buscalan?

  • From Sagada, take a jeepney to Bontoc, which takes approximately 1 hour.
  • From Bontoc, take another jeepney bound for Buscalan, with a travel time of 2 to 3 hours.
  • Once at the junction leading to Buscalan, prepare for a 1-hour trek to reach the village.
Alex and Hanah trekking in Buscalan
Alex and Hanah trekking in Buscalan

It’s essential to have a guide before embarking on the trek to the village. Upon arrival at the junction, seek out locals for guidance on finding a guide. Typically, one guide is needed for a maximum of five people. However, it’s recommended to arrange for a guide in advance. We were fortunate to encounter a villager at the junction who agreed to accompany us as our guide.

After trekking for an hour, we arrived at the village and promptly registered, paying the necessary fees. Following this, we made our way to our homestay, eager to rest and recharge for the adventures ahead.

Immersing in the Traditional Tattoo Session

Given the high number of tourists present that day, we opted to arrange for our tattoos to be done at night. With a packed schedule and plans to depart before lunch the next day to catch the jeep back to Bontoc, we made the most of our time in Buscalan.

Alex receiving a tattoo at Buscalan
Alex receiving a tattoo at Buscalan

The tattoo I ask to put is “Traveler” at night and “Sun and Moon” early in the morning.

Tattoo design depicting a sun and moon symbol
Tattoo design depicting a sun and moon symbol

Traditional Tattoo Experience with Apo Whang-Od

Nathaniel, Alex, Hanah, and our guide waiting in line for Apo Whang-od
Nathaniel, Alex, Hanah, and our guide waiting in line for Apo Whang-od
Hanah, Alex, and Nathaniel queuing for Apo Whang-od
Hanah, Alex, and Nathaniel queuing for Apo Whang-od

Securing a spot in line to receive the iconic tattoo from the legendary Apo Whang-od can feel like a stroke of luck, particularly when faced with crowds of tourists. Thankfully, our guide played a crucial role in arranging our session with Apo Whang-od, ensuring that we had the opportunity to experience this timeless tradition firsthand.

Hanah getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-od
Alex receiving a tattoo from Apo Whang-od
Hanah with Apo Whang-od
Hanah getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-od
Nathaniel tattoo session with Apo Whang-od

Following each session with Apo Whang-od, we seized the chance to capture memorable photos with her, cherishing the opportunity to document this unique and culturally significant experience.

Nathaniel posing for a photo with Apo Whang-od
Nathaniel posing for a photo with Apo Whang-od
Travelers from Buscalan heading home
Travelers from Buscalan heading home

The cost of each tattoo varies depending on the design and size. Smaller designs typically range from 300 to 500 pesos, while larger and more intricate designs may cost upwards of 1000 pesos.

Travelers riding on the roof of a jeepney
Travelers riding on the roof of a jeepney
Passengers atop a jeepney roof during travel
Passengers atop a jeepney roof during travel

Here are some additional tips for your trip to Buscalan:

  • Enjoy unlimited Kalinga home-brewed coffee during your stay.
  • Keep in mind that there is weak or no mobile signal available in the village.
  • Consider staying at one of the homestays available in the village for an authentic experience.
View of rice terraces along the road
View of rice terraces along the road

Conclusion

My traditional tattoo in Buscalan was an incredible experience. Every moment was memorable, from the nervous excitement to the deep sense of cultural connection. This event has provided me with a lasting souvenir and memories to treasure.

Hey Tattoo Enthusiasts! Got your first traditional tattoo in Buscalan? Drop a quick comment with your experience or thoughts. Let’s ink our stories together!

Nathaniel Amoyen is co-founder of Joanathx. Full-time ex-pat worker at day and writer at night.

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7 Responses

  1. Ang ganda ng meaning ng tattoo mo! I wanna try also kaso natatakot ako. Sobrang sakit kasi ata. Baka di ko kayanin. Hehehe tsaka gusto ko rin mameet si Whang Od.

  2. Rae says:

    I still don’t have the guts to have any tattoo! If I would, I would love to have a moon shape as it’s been my favorite since I was a kid pa. So brave of you to have a traditional tattoo with THE Apo Whang-od!

  3. I haven’t tried to get a tattoo and I still have no plans to get one but I want to visit Buscalan because of their culture and experience going there. It looks like Buscalan is really worth it. Hope to visit it soon.

  4. alita says:

    i love Kalinga ?

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